Dedicated to all the old smokers and all the Old Ones in the Chemel=
Rif and beyond. I promised you not to write about Morocco because everything had been told and it was all marveloous in the realm of art and literature. . But I did not
find that Morocco again, so I had to write about that land I found. So I did not
break my promise, I do not write about Morocco and the Rif is not
Morocco. It is the last stance of a magical life.
This is the last story forever of a four story sequence about the country that we once knew as Morocco, in 2018.
This is the last story forever of a four story sequence about the country that we once knew as Morocco, in 2018.
By Ronald Kaiser 2018
The bus journey to Chaouen or Chefchaouen was always pure magic.
The mountains appeared after some curves leaving Tetouan and all in the bus knew that the game is
changing. All the people in Djellabas and Jeans, the women from the
Tetouan mountains with straw hats and red/white skirts, the women in
traditional garments and the freaks and travellers in the midst of
luggage in bundles in the middle of the bus with chicken and bags of
olives. Music from the bus’ loudspeakers turned us on: Jajouka music and
other traditional bands from the Chemel with guinbris in front
and extatic rhytms mixed with Bob Dylan and Patti Smith until we rached
the holy city of Chauoen after endless turns of the road winding higher
and higher.
There we were lead into old houses in the Medina and were
offered excellent hashish and sweet tea until I asked for kif for my sebsi.
Our women were with us and this was never questioned but they envied us
for that and sometimes one of our women had a short affair or longer
with one of the Rifis. Nobody spoke a word about it, me neither because
my women never did this. One tried with wicked words and was told how
bad she is many times later by many. Everybody in the Old Kingdom
greeted us when coming back from Chaouen: „Oh from there you come, you
must have good hash my friend, welcome“ That could survive until the end
of the milllenium. I experienced the joy in the gate to the Chemel, the
Rif, last time then before the big switch. That is the truth about the
Millenium bug as the called this phony bullshit endlessly in 1999 and
pushed it through any media globally. They, the AOI was and were the
millenium bug, destroying all and everything who and what had any
traditional values or emotions that have developed in an organic way.
Even romantic love and the bond with children are under attack by the
Millenium bug. The Millennium bug is still around and transmitted by the
AOI everywhere until today. I saw the AOI just before the end of the
Millennium as three French idiots in a hotel in Chaouen when I came home
with my pregnant lady and was attacked by the trio infernal when just
walking in and stumbled a bit over a rug on the floor a bit „uhhh, ohhh,
ces’t le whisky marrocain, ohh uhh“ and then reporting me to their
fucking police back in Europe or Paris for just being there and being
suspicious and high on hash, what lead to endless harassement later in
Spain by some fascists when we drove back. Pregnant women and Beatnik
appearance do not work well with Grand Okzident figures from police,
right. These are the ghosts and agents of the Regie des Tabacs still
wandering around in neverending attempts to crawl into our asses even when
kif is sold in the next nightshop and in health stores.
The bus from Tetouan to Chaouen was filling up with King Nchaouis
female army as soon as I took seat. All around me were colored
headscares and kaftans and some few men who were looking downtrodden and
afraid. There was absolute silence, nobody talked, nobody listened to
music because there was none. I had my own two seats and was sitting at
the window, looking forward to watch the mountain panorama when suddenly
a Moroccan woman was sitting next to me without greeting me and asking
me before. That was the next step I thought to take me on and down. I
moved away from here as far as I could and the bus started moving. The
bus was modern and clean and there was a strong hissing sound inside
suddenly instead of music when it started immideately to show us the
benfits of modern electronic times. The panorama was as it was twenty
years ago, some more people around but the freedom in their faces was
gone, some islamist jockeys around the Tetouan area and lots of Queen
Esther’s female army in kaftans. But it was still going to the Rif and
there were cottages and goats and pine forests to feel good about. She
began to catch my eyes near me and I took out small transistor radio
pressed it to my ears because I tried to catch some Rifi tunes. There
were none, no Guinbri sounds at all in the ether of King Nchaoui
but the evil whispers around me “what is he doing ńext to that poot
woman?“ „Are they married? Why is he sitting next to her?“ „He has no
dignity at all, he wants to do it to her and all of us“ „He is listening
to radio now, as is this is nothing, a radio with music, I can hear the
music“.
I realized the set up when I checked out that she had a child and a
husband sitting also in the bus and he sent her to sit with me.
The bleak atmosphere prevailed until we reached Chefchaouen that
stretched now about ten time its size build brainlessly into the
mountains by migrants from France mostly. I stepped out and found
nothing but Banlieu plus tourist atmosphere with Rotisseries and traffic
sounds and banks everywhere and a huge mass of former migrants behaving
as if in France. I followed a Rifi from the old times to a hotel in the
Medina I knew, just for the old times sake again and that was a mistake off
course. I entered it through one of the beautiful small blue lanes
Chaouen is famous for this time filled with hordes of tourists from Asia
and France mostly in groups. My spirits were sinking, only my old guide
kept me up. He found that old house in the Medina build into a „hostel“
style turd oven and I checked in only to him a favour and to stop the
process. There were about five cameras even in the small entrance area
an French style gay man watching huge monitors displaying the interior
of vthat house. I showed him my passport and gave him hundred dirhams
before I climbed up to my room. It was small and sticky but that did not
count in the old days but now because it was not real. It was a bloody
movie set. I felt like in a film set for a cheap sitcom or Big Brother
in the Medina. I decided to take them on, whoever from the AOI was
behind that bucket that has housed generations of real travellers before
and went down were they had a grand living room in the patio before.
Now I sat down in a black leather couch surrounded by huge monitors and
the white cats of the gay manager. I watched the scene
and the cats, which I liked, the cats were nice but from another world in France. They were the only positive sight I could
catch. I could not stand the looks of the manager and his „no smoking“
signs and warnings that smoking weed and hash is prohibited, he did not
say by the Regie des Tabac as they did before in the fifties, and went
upstairs to the great roof where we had also slept, smoked and talked
before in the old millenium and an endless stream of travellers, freaks,
hippies and even old beatniks had left their DNA code for the later
interpol and BKA to be evaluated in two old Medina houses in the center
of Chefchaouen. We shared our lives and stories there in endless and
always repeating night sessions, in a time that was totally destroyed
and abandoned by the AOI by just claiming it never existed. It is all
gone and they take it out the internet step by step, Only our pictures,
fingerprints and DNA are left in the databanks of the AOI as remnants of
an extinguished tribe.
On the terrace they played 1976: a young German woman was blocking
the ladder and smiled at me the typical way I know from the
German AOI, I totally ignored here and went up, just passing her. There was her
counterpart, playing with his secret service notebook shouting out loud
in German what and whom he was and is going to watch and surveil here. I
had enough. I passed the old writer friend sititng in his room after
chatting with him and left. He did not give me the hundred Dirham back
for the ten minutes in his AOI surveillance shack museum. He knew what he did. Stick it in
your best place “Jean Pierre”.
I was gasping for breath outside until an old friend arrived. One of
the old smokers of the past my age showed up: „Hello my friend, how are
you?“ „Fucked up, I have the surveillance shit still in my ears from
that fucking place – bsssss bsss“ „hahaha, hohoho“ he went, „let us find
something better, man.“ „Yeah, but outside the Medina, I can’t stand
that tourist shit here, what is this, Avignon now? Take me to the
Sahara“ „ hahahahaha, it changed name“ he said and we marched on.
Endless small lanes right and left, colored as it was in the past, ocean
blue and white, so beautiful, but now they changed the colors to some
fancy blue synthetic shit to make it more shining, more bright, more
dumb. It was nice, but it lost that inner peace and the greatnhess of the universe that it
catched before. It was plain and flat now, but wow for the tourist groups from
France and Japan and China running through the smallest houses entrances and micro lanes. It
was as phony and disgusting as Avignon is these days: totally surveilled
and on the other hand playing the seventies tune in a shallow idiotic
French theatrical Jewish way. Take care, this is the worst spectacle of all.
“oh euh monsieur, take my flyer look at my pics, we are so seventies, we
are so hip, I for sure work for the pigs, aeh the flics, get your
jail term for smoking kif, we are the cool French chivatos from the
Rif.”
After half an hour we found a hotel outside the medina near the
police that looked like a tradtional old Moroccan hotel. The clerk was a
woman with a modern haircut and she wore no traditional cloth. I
checked the rooms and realized I was the only guest beside „her
brother“. So, the Moroccan police had again ruined and renamed an old
hotel and was running a setup scheme. But I took it, since I had no
dope, and cared for my friend the guard then. I gave him ten Dirham and that was
cool and we departed with good wishes. And then the trouble started.
When I came back from my room to check the town, she was already high up in anger and on the rag: „Why did
you giiiivee him moooneeeyy? Whyyyyy? He smooooke druuuugs, he smooooke
druuugs very dangerooouus“ „what did you just say?“ „Hashish, Hashish“
she shrieked in utter hysteria. „Where do you come from by the way?“ I
asked „Iaaam frooom heeeree I aam fooom heeeree!“ „Yes, right, here from
Grenoble I guess. Listen, when I want to pay somebody because he had
worked for me hard and good that is my thing and not yours. By the way
he led me to your hotel and I just paid you.“ „But hashiish, hasshissh,
you aaalsssooo smooke hasshiish? Do you smoke hasshiish?“ „ Can you tell
me the way to the restaurant next to the French police where you come
from?“ And she took out a city map as íf we were in bloody Paris and
began to check for French Restaurants in Chaouen. I had enough again.
„Thank you, I will take the Point Chaud then“ „Oh I don’t know it it has
opened yet“ she said. „I am absolutely sure about that“ I answered an
decided not to talk to here and her haircut ever again.
I searched for tradional food, some tajin or couscous and soup all
over town, I was turned away harshly by the Taco and Rotisserie stalls
and restaurants, it was not appropriate anymore to even ask for harira soup. I
ate harira in on of the left over old restaurants, that was quite good
but was then asked by the employees if I would lime to fuck the waitress loud all over the place.
I took this as the first AOI attempt to take me down in Chauoen and left
without a word and without tip, „ But don’t you want her, don’t you
want her“ they shouted behind me in the lanes….
Traditional food was only avalaible now at the central place, the
central place where everything happened in old times, when we were there
and real people occupied the place with old men walking around with a
broad inner smile and the mountain people all around. I saw all expensive
table cloth on fancy restaurant tables and Japanese signs: Sushi
restaurant, but they even had „traditional moroccan food“ for tourists
only. I looked over the scenerey with flickering candles in the evening
in the centre of our most favoured town up North and felt like an alien.
‘who is able o create such a set?’ I asked myself and went around the
corner and there were the ‘artist restaurants’ for the „freaks et
artisans’ with similar ridiculous prices but with batiques and French
women a bit younger but open long hair. They all looked sad and worn
out, as the tourists of the central square, even the Japanese men felt
bad and disgusted. But something was missing: right, the entertainment
and there it was: a French-Moroccan singer and songwriter with guitar
displaying the best southern France has to offer in French and Árabic
with well cut middle long hair and a well cut beard. I could not believe
that and looked around me and so one old men in the crowd of
French-Morroccan migrants and tourists with Djellaba and beard an
walking stick, one of the old ones they had left out. I looked at him
and saw his attempts to tune into that mediocre crooner bullshit and it failed.
He looked like a stranger in his own town, left alone and full of
despair. Our eyes met and we agreed. I turned away and puked into a
waste basket in front of all eyes and went away.
I walked down again to
my hotel and passed endless shops in the once beautiful medina with the
same arty kitsch display as the other and I passed groups of French men
with the same beards, known as „toilet seat beard design“ discussing the
beauty they had here. I opened my hotel and found the neighboring rooms
occoupied. The police from the other side of the road had logged in
there, most probably because „I maybe smoke hasshiissh“ or wheatever
bullshit that French-Morrocan had told them in advance to make herself
even more important. That isn’t even ridiculous to believe because the
Regie des Tabac or whatever mask the French re-occupied the Kingdom had
advised the Moroccan police and the AOI agents everywhere to report even
the buying of one gram of Kif. As in the old days, but the Fifties, par
bleue.
Next morning, (I slept in another room secretely off course) I
returned to Tetouan immediatley without looking back at that town. The
AOI had shown me their masterpiece of contempory destrcutive art and it
was well done in their universe. They must have opened a bottle of
champagne.
I decided to say goodbye to that Kingdom that had vanished and to
visit some Old People in the Chemel for a last puff since I did not
smoḱe anyore for years and bought a ticket to Bab Berred on the long an
winding road to stroll around in the area a bit to reach Ketama finally
to say hellogoodbye forever or until the AOI is beaten out of the
Kingdom. That is not that easy, even not in Tetouan where „many old
friends“ handled the taxis and ticket sales and were constantly stoned
on the move in bus station. „Hey man where can I buy a ticket to Bab
Berred?“ „This man comes back at 12 he will sell you“ I waited and
nobody arrived and all the stoned guys selling tickets and stuff were
watching me how I behaved. I took this for a time and then asked again.
The guy came and just grabbed inside the closed ticket counter window
from behind, pulled out a block of tickets and issued one for me with a
pen I gave him. I gave him some money and saw that he just wrote some
bullshit on it but that was cool, since the busrides on the long an
winding road from Tetouan to Al Hoceima were always very different and
hard to handle for todays travellers and smetimes for the Oldtimers
too. So I was waiting for the bus that would off course not arrive at
the time he wrote ón the ticket he had self issued but I bought my way
in and they „knew me“ from a distant magical past when they looked in my
eyes.
And all the islamist in posh middle Eastern style that hang around
in Tetouan too these days avoided me for that, because I am part íf that
old semi-pagan culture they are all destroying. They are not dirty at
Tetouan, no, they look brilliant when they go for proud jaywalking with
their expensive kaftans, the white cap and their wives totally in black,
fully veiled with sunglasses also and gloves and black socks. Visiting
their shops everywhere in Tetouan Katari and Oman style where they buy
new black gloves for their wives and daughters and veiles and they were
never allowed to take out. And then have some islamist snack with
their friends form the Salvation Front for the brotherhood in fancy
shining and glittering and bright with halogen lights Omani and Katari
style snack shops for the typical „Tacos“ they eat.
I checked all the old friends of the ticket compartment who were
considerably stoned right now and asked „what the fuck is about the bus
to Al Hoceima, I want to go to Bab Berred, where is it man, where is it“
and played the angry idiot
„Do you still know the land and the people? Do you know where you
go?“ „Yes, what the fuck do you think, you know me well, right?“ They
all grinned and one went back to the empty ticket couter, grabbed behind
and issued a new ticket and told me: at 13.30 at platform 3. Nothing
had to be paid off course and everbody was smiling, smoking and I was
waiting and decided to take the piss. I was waiting there and the
Islamists women there were turning me down, the only infidels, the
Moroccan smokers do not count, they are a different class, they are out,
and shouted at the guy: „Hey what you do, when is the fucking bus is
arriving?“ He jumped to me like rocketdriven and explained totally
stoned now that the bus will come at 1.30 but then he got it, that I felt
like shit with these islamist creatures around me with their utter
disgust towards anything that comes not from the koran explained by
their husbands and the Salvation Front. He waited with me until the bus
arrived as a relative or friend so they could not talk to much bullshit
as usual, he was a witness, and the old hog arrived. The worst bus they
had on display is crossing the Chemel horizontally to give you, the only
European the feeling how it was fourty or thirty years ago when it had to stop
for repairs in villages and you made new friends there. It is always
special to go from Tetouan to Al Hoceima via Ketama and off course I was
the only non Moroccan in a crowded bus and yes we were driving like
1981, it was aching and creaking and moaning and sometimes the back door
opened, full of Rifis and no Islamists.
They began to play around with me in the back, showing off, the
young guys as in the old days, making fun and bullshitting all the time. The
women from the mountains were turning around, making jokes about me and
were smiling. After Bab Taza, the last checkpoint of the Regie des
Tabacs and the AOI in disguise who want to drag you into cars and show
you Corporal Luis des Funes later the real mountains began, with some
snow on some tops and heavy mists in pine trees. The settlements changed,
the became rough and basic and looked like they could defend
themselves.
We stopped at a truck stop picnic place and it was like in the old
times: a menue for the travelers, with soup and chicken and salad plus a
coke, special Rif Coke in very small bottles with the real thing as usual there, served in a large hall and you could see that money was invested
there a bit in a decent way. It was not downtrodden or poor but
different. I ate the good and rich food and walked around and all the women were
laughing and said that I ate like an animal, where I come from, they were
asking their men. But that was friendly and attentive as they were
before. I walked to the terrace and the most important guy, a Rifi from
the bus followed me and we began to talk. He showed me the fields behind
the truck stop, where the green has just started to grow and explained
the land and its soil to me and said, that I should go to Ketama, that
this was better for me, the real thing. I explained that I was not going
to buy, since I had no money but I am writer but that I was not
intending to write about Morocco. I would go to Bab Berred to stay to
write. The bus started again and the fog became impermeable. All I
could see were branches of pine trees hanging on to the small and
winding road and white fog. The bus went on like that was nothing, and
groaning and creaking and the back door was half open. That went on and
on for hours and the I asked: „when do we stop at Bab Berred?“ everybody
was laughing „Hey man, Bab Berred is twenty kilometers behind, we ask
the drive to stop, you can walk back“ hahaha, the went, „Bab Berred,
where is Bab Berred, has anybody seen Bab Berred, the bus did not see
Bab Berred, nobody sees anything“.
Half an hour later we stopped in Ketama and I stepped out of the
bus as if this was planned ages ago and my friend, the Rifi from the bus
came with me and two friends of him and I was invited for a Pow How in
the best place of Ketama to explain myself. So my expedtion had gained
some members and then we were four and we went to a marble plated
restaurant and club, five storeys high, with uniformed waiters and music and TVs
and full of men talking and smoking and drinking tea and coffee in a
dense but relaxed atmosphere that is so typical for the cannabis tribe
around the world. We reached storey four so I felt quite accepted from
the beginning, being up high, the waiters were all around us and talking
began. I made myself clear in the end that I really was a writer and
just wanted to stay some days but off course they did not believe really
but I was ok, that was given to me, I was ok and could stay over night
at least. We drank very sweet mint tea traditional style in a luxury
environment, talked about many things mostly in metaphorical language
from the past. We had coffee later and after an hour we went down and
they brought me to a cheap but immaculate clean hotel at the main road.
The owner was told that I am his guest and I was checked in and sat in
my room watching the street scene from my balcony.
There were hundreds of big and old Merdecesses mostly the same and
tractors with plows lined up at parkings lots and along the main
streets. The town was not clean at all, no, it was dirty without
sidewalks, there was no city planning going on, but cafe after cafe could
be found, full of life and secrets, of bright and shady people, the
worst met best and vice versa. Business deals were made, they whispered
about weddings and intrigues but there was one thing missing in Ketama:
the army of King Nchaouis and Queens Esthers women in headscarves and
their slander and the islamists. No more whispers and yelling to be
heard, there was silence that created a beauty in the place despite it
looks. Men were greeting me when I stood on the balcony : „Hey ca va,
how is it going“ „Ca va bein my friend, maybe we meet later“ and he
departed with a smile. There was no hassle at all but a steady coming
and going and staying and working on each other.
I walked out after dark and walked the streets of Ketama through mud
and potholes as it was in the old days without an Islamist or their
women blocking our ways and passed endless varieties of cafes, always
crowded and full of smoke and I choose one with a lot of windows and a
huge crowd watching soccer. I went inside and placed myself at a table
and was welcomed friendly by the older men sitting there, smoking hash
and kif. „What you like, Barca or Madrid?“ „never Madrid, never Madrid“
„Ok the tea is on me“. We were dicussing the game and they invited me to
their farm and I had to explan them I am a poor man and I am just
writing. „I am just a poor writer“ „hahahaha“ the went alltogether, as
if this was the best joke they ever heard and they made me a lot of
business proposals I could not accept, because I am just a poor artist. I
was high as a kite from the excellent hash they were smoking all around
me constantly, the best qualities I have experienced for a very long
tme. They showed me all the very primo personal stash they had with them
and that was far beyond excellent. I really do not know where they get
the bullshit from in Europe disguised as Moroccan hash even today, do
you find that in canals around the North Sea? Everybody, about maybe one
hundred men were constantly smoking, even sebsis with kif, but mostly excellent zero zero
plus from their own fields. It was much more smooth, relaxing and strong
than the kif from Bab Taza and Chauoen, that was more on the wild side down there.
It took you the moon very quick in a rocket, the Ketama kif lifts you up
slowly but neverending withóut ever encountering an edge. That is De
Luxe in a unique way.
The aroma was unbeatable good and nobody could escape the gosths of that kif, no matter if you smoked it or not. I was floating along their tales and their mindgames and mimicries that was straight from Ali Baba and the Sufis and knew at a point after hours I had to go otherwise I would land on a farm and stay there for some months and then could not go back because was just up in the clouds. I could not admit to build up that strong bond to live with them and I apologized that I had to go and went home. We were all shaking hands and I left.
The aroma was unbeatable good and nobody could escape the gosths of that kif, no matter if you smoked it or not. I was floating along their tales and their mindgames and mimicries that was straight from Ali Baba and the Sufis and knew at a point after hours I had to go otherwise I would land on a farm and stay there for some months and then could not go back because was just up in the clouds. I could not admit to build up that strong bond to live with them and I apologized that I had to go and went home. We were all shaking hands and I left.
Everything looked different after I walked out of the cafe. But the
kif was not singing, as it used to do before and down in Tangier and Chauen, it was just like a kite
flight above the town, absolutly mellow and intense. I saw a fire down
the street and looked what it was. It was just a pile of garbage with
plastic and all stuff in it and they burned it down, as in the old days.
That was no disturbance at all. Those were men in control of
themselves, no King and Queen and Regie des Tabacs to be seen. I could
not find the raod to my hotel, although I was in a haṕpy mood and
somebody spoke to me: „Can I help you?“ „I can’ t find my hotel“ „Just
come with me“ and he walked me to the main road and showed me the
direction. I reached the huge building with cafe, restaurant and hotel
and the owner, a Moroccan who looked like a Dutch guy from the eighties
told me: „come here“ I walked to him and he whispered in my ear: „
Tomorrow you better go, police does not want you here in town, or you
have to go to the mountains, to the farms and stay there.“ I knew it was
over, writing did not count and when I turned away from him I saw the
police jeep runnibg towards ths house and I went up to sleep.
Next morning I walked quick to the road and the men showed me the
bus to Al Hoceima. We were passing the typical Rif villages with the
villages and hamlets that do not look pittoresque at all but rough
and a bit rundown. Metal rods stick out of the roofs and walls quite often to male it look tough and weird. Nobody wants tourists here and people like us can
only stay in peace and without mobile towers and that shit when it looks
ugly. And they had their ways to make it look unattractive. That is our only way to survice: remote and ugly.
Our bus broke down and they repaired with the help of vilagers. Some
beatiful girls were standing on the other side, waiting for their bus,
chatting with men and each other, dressed with leather jackets and
jeans and blouses and full of erotic and feminity, you can not find
this anywhere else in the Kingdom anymore, maybe around Tafraoute, but different.
Al Hoceima was just an islamist hole, waiting to be taken over and
not dreaming anymore about the old good times, nearly abandoned from all
and everything alive since the King has destroyed the natural harbour
with a futuristc harbour building in the middle. I hasted to Tangier via
Fes, where the islamists secret police controls the bus station and is
spreading hatred against unbelievers. I was just on step before kicking
one of them in their asses when they denied me access to my luggage.
They bid me farewell in Tangier harbour by ripping off more than
hundred Euros by changing money with an islamist with some islamist
women suddenly popping up like mushrooms in the room. I Took it as a
life insurence for my trip through the straits of Gibraltar and not
being hassled by police and customs too much. I did not say a word and
It worked and I did not say ‘Allahu Akbar“, that were his words and from
his women when they stole my money five minutes before I left Morocco.
Copyright 2018 by Ronald C. Kaiser